How to process a blooming garden in May. When and how to spray fruit trees - tips for gardeners. Why you need to spray trees and shrubs in the spring

Almost all gardeners know that spraying trees in the spring is a useful thing. But what exactly does garden processing give? What pests and diseases can be controlled by spraying? How and when to spray trees in April and May? How to make pest control safe for beneficial insects? In detail - about the spring protection of the garden.

Pest control: where they hibernate and what they eat

There are a great many insect pests - only the apple tree and blackcurrant have more than 200 of them. But you need to fight only those that really cause significant damage. According to the method of feeding and the device of the oral apparatus, pests are divided into two main groups: leaf-sucking and leaf-eating.

TO leaf-sucking include aphids, suckers, bedbugs, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, and mites that are not insects. These pests pierce the leaf plate or bark and suck out the juice through the puncture. Therefore, they cannot be killed except by contact, the drug must destroy the integuments of the body, as a result of which the pests die, or must cause paralysis of the respiratory systems.

But in the arsenal modern means protection, new generation preparations have appeared that penetrate into the cell sap of the plant and become destructive for leaf-sucking pests, but do not accumulate in the plant itself, because after 2-3 weeks they completely decompose into harmless elements.

One of these drugs is the chemical poison "Phosbecid". Plants treated with it should not be eaten for 20 days. But there are also biopreparations "Iskra-bio" ("Agravertin") and "Fitoverm", after processing with which fruits and greens can be eaten after 48 hours.

TO leaf-eating insects include beetles and their larvae, butterfly caterpillars. In addition to insects, there are also mollusks: slugs, snails, crustaceans. All of them feed directly on the leaves, so they are easy to poison through the gastric tract - just moisten the aerial part of the host plant with a poisonous drug for them.

As a rule, everything sucking insects hibernate on the branches of shrubs and trees located near the kidneys. And these insects are most vulnerable before the start of sap flow, when the average daily temperature is close to zero, since at this moment their chitinous covers begin to break down to allow the larvae to get out of them. There is one more moment when pests are vulnerable - late autumn, because at this time their chitinous covers have not yet strengthened.

The rest winter partly in the forks of branches or in the crevices of the bark, but mostly - under a layer of foliage or in top layer soil right under the plantings, and come to the surface only when a green cone of leaves appears, when the scales of the kidneys move apart, that is, after the start of sap flow. Most of these insects first damage these opening young leaves, and then turn into buds at the moment of their advancement (isolation), therefore, they must be dealt with precisely at these moments.

But in no case should the garden be treated with chemicals at the time of flowering, since beneficial insects come out of the ground at this time. And their destruction can lead to ecological imbalance on the site, because their number is restored much more slowly than the number of insect pests.

There is also a whole group of pests, hibernating inside plants: gall midges, vitreous, bud currant, raspberry fly larvae. They are especially difficult to deal with, since they are practically impossible to reach with the help of chemical means. It remains only to manually collect, cut out the stems of currants and raspberries with gall thickenings, drying stems of blackcurrant and drooping, after which all this must be immediately burned before the pests come out and spread throughout the garden.

First pest control

This is spraying trees and bushes in early spring before the start of sap flow, at the end of March - at the very beginning of April. Larvae and eggs of insects die from contact with the drug. Therefore, it is necessary to very carefully spray the entire tree (the entire bush) along all the branches and the near-trunk circle in order to moisten the pests. When processing the garden, at least 10 liters of solution are consumed for an adult tree, for a young one - 5-6 liters, for each bush - at least 1.5-2 liters.

It is best to use a concentrated solution of any mineral fertilizer for spraying, from the following (per 10 liters of water):

500-600 g of nitroammophoska,
or 600-700 g of azophoska,
or 400 g of potassium chloride,
or 500 g of potassium carbonate,
or 600-700 g of urea
or just 1 kg of table salt.

It is imperative to spray well the ends of the branches on which aphid eggs are laid, the skeletal branches, in the forks of which some of the pests hibernate, and the soil in the trunk circles. With such spraying, there is a violation of salt metabolism in the cells of pests, which causes their death.

If such treatment is not done in the spring, then at the very beginning of the sap flow, pest insects will be born from eggs and larvae, but at this time our helpers - beneficial insects that feed on pests - are still sleeping and will come to the surface only during flowering, so protect garden from pests except us no one.

Second garden treatment

If you did not treat the garden in early spring and did not destroy the pest masonry, then a second treatment will be required. It is often recommended to use one of the following drugs: Inta-vir, Decis, Karate, Fury, karbofos or its analogue Fufanon.

The first four drugs are highly toxic, therefore very effective, but at the same time they kill beneficial insects, bees and earthworms, since they decompose for about three weeks and destroy beneficial insects emerging from their shelters. And absolutely they cannot be used from the moment of flowering, not only the garden, but also the coltsfoot, since at this time bumblebees appear and worms crawl out.

Karbofos and "Fufanon" are preferable to these drugs, primarily because they quickly, within 5-7 days, decompose even before the appearance of beneficial insects, but are less effective, so they should not be used with a large number of pests.

All of these drugs destroy pests, getting into their intestines along with food and causing poisoning. Some of the pests will begin to feed at the moment of bud opening (green cone), while the other - at the moment of budding (separation and extension of buds). It is at these moments that you need to have time to process the garden.

At this time, there are already early green crops. When processing the garden, they must be covered with a film.

Instead of the chemicals described above, you can use the same mineral fertilizers, but only their concentration should be 7-10 times lower, otherwise you can cause a severe burn of the opening buds and buds. We can recommend spraying on a green cone with a 0.7% solution of urea - this is 70 g (3 tablespoons) of urea per 10 liters of water.

Spraying with infusions and decoctions of tobacco dust, citrus peels, onion peel or dry tansy, marigold seeds, garlic, coniferous needles is effective.

Tobacco dust. To prepare a solution, 400 g of tobacco dust are infused in 10 liters of water for a day, then boiled for half an hour, then cooled and filtered. For spraying, for every 10 liters of water, you need to take 100 g of the solution, adding 40 g of soap to it for better adhesion.
Onion peel. Half a bucket of onion peel pour a bucket hot water, cover, insist two days, strain and spray.
Dry tansy. 1 kg collected during flowering and dried tansy, pour 10 liters of water and boil over low heat for 15 minutes, cool, strain. For spraying, for every 10 liters of water, take 100 g of solution, add 40 g of soap and spray.
Infusion of garlic. Grind 100 g of garlic, pour 10 liters of water for a day, strain and spray.
Infusion of coniferous needles. 2.5 kg of any needles conifers pour 10 liters of water, stirring from time to time, leave for a week, strain, add another 20 liters of water and spray.
Infusion of citrus peels. Soak 1 kg of citrus peels, pass through a meat grinder, pour 3 liters of water, close tightly and leave for 5 days in the dark, strain, squeeze, bottle, cork. Use as needed, 100 g of solution per 10 liters of water.

Aim to get on the underside of the opened leaves, as pests tend to be there.

It is useful to put corrugated cardboard trapping belts on apple and pear trees, into which caterpillars crawl, moving up the trunk. The top edge of the cardboard must be bent like a roof, the caterpillars do not crawl over such an edge. Trapping belts are changed a couple of times a season and burned along with the pests lurking there.

The hunting belt can be made of polyethylene film. The lower edge is tied around the trunk like a skirt, and the upper edge is folded over like an umbrella. Such a belt can not be removed all summer. Pests will not be able to crawl over the bent top edge.

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Rules for combating diseases and pests of the garden in May

All chemical treatments are carried out either before flowering (protecting strawberries from weevil), or after flowering (protecting honeysuckle from fingerwings).
Against beetles and caterpillars, the drug Fitoverm is used, against ticks - Akarin.
Destroy caterpillars (codling moth, hawthorn, sawfly, etc.) as they appear with biological products (Lepidocid, Bitoxibacillin).
As soon as the buds begin to bloom, they begin to fight against aphids and ants. It is especially important to fight aphids on plum (2 treatments), black and red currants, gooseberries, individual years- on honeysuckle.
The drug Fitoverm is universal, nicotine preparations (Antitlin, tobacco dust, Tabazon) are effective.
Simultaneously with aphids, ants should be destroyed.

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Measures to combat diseases and pests of the garden in May

Plants	Diseases and pests	Control measures
pome fruits And stone fruits fruit crops	Weevils	In the early morning, shake off from trees and bushes on the litter of the flower beetle weevil, cherry weevil, etc. Repeat the procedure after 5 days.
	Scab, spotting, coccomycosis, moniliosis	Spray with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture during the growing season. In case of severe damage - treat the trees with Horus or Skor preparations immediately after flowering.
Currant black, red and gooseberry	Ognevka	To prevent the flight of moth butterflies from under the bushes (before flowering), cover the ground under the currant with dense material. ___________________________________
Gooseberry And black currant	Sferoteka	When the first signs of the disease appear, spray with soda ash (50 g per 10 l of water) with soap (40 g). Treat plants with infusion of rotted cow manure: 1 hour manure + 3 hours water. Infuse for 3 days. Dilute the infusion with water in a ratio of 1: 3, strain. Spraying should be carried out 2-3 times immediately after flowering with an interval of 7-10 days.
strawberries And raspberries	Raspberry strawberry weevil	A week before the start of flowering, lay out branches of wormwood or pine in the aisles. Spill infusion of garlic: chop 500 g of cloves, put in a jar of 3 liters, pour warm water and insist in a dark place for 5 days; strain and dilute 60 ml of infusion in 10 liters of water, add 40 g of laundry soap. Be sure to regularly collect and destroy drooping buds with larvae.
	raspberry mite	Spray with 1% colloidal sulfur. Spray with Fitoverm before flowering (2 ml / 1 liter of water).
All cultures	Aphids on young shoots	400 g of tobacco dust insist in 10 liters of water during the day. Then boil for half an hour, cool and strain. Take 100 g of solution for every 10 liters of water + 40 g of laundry soap for better adhesion. 200 g of onion peel pour 10 liters of warm water and leave for 4-5 days. Strain and spray. Spray with Tabazol, Antitlin, Fitoverm before and after flowering.

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Growing a healthy and fulfilling garden is not easy, as each tree requires proper care and processing.

It is very important to spray trees with the right products. It is also equally important to choose for this correct period. We'll talk about trees later.

There are a large number of tools that can be used to process trees in the garden. These can be special products purchased at the store, and substances made by hand.

The most commonly used means are:

Copper vitriol. It is very often used to destroy diseases such as scab, spotting, powdery mildew, as well as many putrefactive diseases. The use of such a tool is possible throughout the year. To combat pests, slaked lime is also added to copper sulfate. Prepare this mixture in a ratio of 1:1. The color of the resulting mixture should be blue.

Inkstone. Such a tool is used for spraying cherries, apple trees and plums. The action of iron sulfate is different from copper. It has the ability to saturate plants with iron, which contributes to their full growth. It is important to note that you can not use this tool more than twice in one season.

DNOC drug. This tool is very toxic, so its use is not always possible. The drug is very effective in the fight against many diseases and pests. When working with it, it is necessary to use overalls, since if it gets on any part of the skin, you can get severe toxic poisoning.

Urea. This tool is used very often. And this is not surprising, since with the help of it you can get rid of not only many diseases, but also burn out a large number of pests. Also, urea is used as a top dressing, because it saturates the plant with a large amount of nitrogen.

Although this is a fairly versatile tool, you should not abuse it. The fact is that an excess of nitrogen-containing dressings can lead to a lack of flowering and fruiting. This is due to the fact that nitrogen stimulates the growth of the vegetative mass, and its excess causes the plant to spend all its energy on it.

If there is too much of this substance in the soil, then this can provoke a softening of the rhizome. If this happens, the plant will begin to be affected by putrefactive and fungal diseases. And also, due to diseased roots, nutrition will deteriorate, the immunity of the plant as a whole will fall.

biological preparations. This tool is gaining popularity over time. An important advantage over other means is that when used, the plant does not receive damage and burns. But biological preparations can be used only for preventive purposes. In the process of combating existing pests, this remedy is ineffective.

There are many means for processing fruit trees that protect them from the occurrence of diseases and pests.

Processing in the spring

Personal protective equipment at the gardener

The very first spraying of fruit trees is carried out in March, after the snow melts and the air temperature rises to 5 ° C.

Many experienced gardeners recommend spraying at the beginning and end of March, since it is at this time that all pests begin to awaken. When spraying, it is important not to forget that plants begin to wake up along with pests, so in no case should you use too concentrated substances, because young leaves can be damaged.

Before starting processing, you need to remove all last year's leaves and branches, in which pests that overwintered there may be hiding. In the event that the tree is too old, then it is worth removing obsolete bark and moss from it. To do this, use a metal scraper. In those places where cracks have formed, you can also use a metal brush.

After all the work done, you can proceed to the direct spraying of plants.

The trees are sprayed again in April. Exact time this process depends on the beginning of flowering. This mainly applies to apple and pear trees. In order to carry out spraying at this time, it is not necessary to clean the trees from the bark, since this treatment specifically protects the inflorescences.

To spray the inflorescences, it is necessary to make a solution of a small concentration in order not to damage them.

The final spring processing is carried out in May. For this, a solution of the same concentration is used as in April.

To avoid any problems, it is worth processing in the morning or evening, since that is when the wind is absent. It is also worth getting acquainted with the weather forecast, because if it suddenly starts to rain, then all efforts will be in vain.

Spraying trees in spring

In the spring, the tree is sprayed three times, while the concentration of the solution must be strictly monitored. After all, the health of each plant depends on it.

Processing in the autumn

In order to spray the trees in the fall, you must also remove the dead bark.

This work must be done in wet weather. Also, cleaning should be done only by hand without the use of tools, since the tree itself can be damaged. If necessary, you can use a tool made of plastic.

If there is any damage, you should use a special var for gardening.

Spraying is always carried out in weather with dry and calm conditions. It is advisable to spray with nitrogen.

After spraying, the tree can be whitewashed. This is done in order to protect the plant from temperature extremes, sunburn, damage by fungi, bacteria and rodents.

It is important for a gardener to know the garden treatment schedule for pests and diseases. But not all gardening is seasonal. During the entire growing season, it is necessary to cut branches from cherries, plums that have become ill with a monilial burn (sudden wilting and blackening of leaves), from raspberries, branches affected by raspberry gall midge (thickening on the stem), from currants - branches affected by a glass case.

The further south the garden is located, the stronger preparations (or the more often) it needs to be treated: in southern zones(steppe, forest-steppe) pests winter better and more generations hatch during the season. In these areas, not only insects, but also mites cause more damage, so it is better to make a tank mixture of insecticide and acaricide ( Thiovit Jet). The processing schedule must be followed.

All the mentioned drugs dissolve in 10 liters of water. The number of chemical treatments can be reduced. Mandatory early spring and processing when the codling moth (cherry fly) appears. There are other insecticides Karbofos, Intavir), but they are more toxic. Spraying with decoctions of herbs is ineffective. Biological insecticides are non-toxic: Fitoverm, Agraverin, Aktofit. They can replace all chemical ones, combined with biological fungicides ( Phytodoctor). In practice, chemicals are more effective. The terms for processing the garden with chemical protection products are given in the table below.

garden processing schedule

Spring

February March

At the first positive temperatures, you need to cut apple trees and pears. If you do not have time before the start of bud break, then you need to postpone pruning for a time when greenery blooms on the trees. Cherries, sweet cherries, apricots, plums and peaches are not pruned in spring, so as not to cause cadmium leakage. Wounds thicker than 2 cm are covered with oil paint or garden pitch.

In February or March, you need to whitewash the trunk and skeletal branches of trees with slaked lime or a mixture of slaked lime, clay and blue vitriol (100 g per bucket of water). Treat the entire garden for diseases, including black cancer, and pests with a 30V tank mixture and blue vitriol or Garth, or drug DNOC, or tank mix Hom and Fufanon.

April May

With the onset of heat, it is important for the gardener not to be late with treatments. It is better to treat with tank mixtures at each stage of plant development.

Green cone (buds open). Process pome and stone fruits with a mixture Actars or Engio and Horus. In currants, mechanically remove overgrown buds (they contain mites). Also water the kidneys with hot water.
Pink bud (before flowering). tank mix Engio and Horus with the addition of mites and powdery mildew Thiovit Jet. For gooseberries and currants tank mix Actellik, or Aktara, or Engio plus Topaz. For the raspberry mixture Actellik and Switch.
Falling petals. From pests and diseases tank mixture Angio and Horus, Atk. If there are ticks, add Thiovit Jet. For currant Horus and Skor do not add. Do not process raspberries after flowering
The formation of the ovary, the growth of fruits of apple trees, pears. At this time, the 1st generation codling moth is active. Spray with fungicide tank mix ( Speed- treatment for many diseases or Topaz- powdery mildew treatment) and insecticide ( Lufox or Match). The first spraying during the flowering of white acacia. The next - in 30-35 days.
Growth of sweet cherries and cherries. From cherry fly, comycosis, spotting sprayed with tank mixture Actellic and Horus or Actellic and Switch. From the cherry fly, the trees must be sprayed at the time of its appearance (ripening of early varieties of sweet cherries).
Growth of fruits of plum, apricot. During the formation of the stone in early varieties of plums, plum and oriental codling moth damage. From it, as well as spotting and fruit rot, treat with a tank mixture of fungicides and insecticide ( Match, Actellik, Switch, Speed). For peach Match replace Engio. Against the second generation of plum codling moth is used Lufox.

Summer

June July

Growth of fruits of apple and pear trees. Codling moth, ticks and scab are dangerous. tank mix Horus And soon with insecticide Match).
The growth of currants, gooseberries. From pests and diseases, treat with a tank mixture Aktellika and Topaz.
After collecting cherries and sweet cherries, be sure to treat them prophylactically against a variety of fungal diseases. Horus.
The ripening of plum fruits. From fruit rot, treat with a preparation Switch(not only treats, but also improves the presentation of fruits, contributes to preservation).

Aug. Sept

Ripening of fruits of apple-trees, pears. From fruit rot, treat with a preparation Switch or Horus.
After collecting plums, apricots from aphids, coccomycosis, monilosis, and fruit rot, treat with a tank mixture (Horus, Skor, Engio) 18-24 days after harvest.
After collecting peaches from curly, powdery mildew and clasterosporium, treat with a mixture Horus and Skora 24-30 days after harvest.
After collecting currants, gooseberries, treat the bushes with a tank mixture Actellik and Topaz, and raspberries Horus.

Autumn

October November

Remove or bury fallen leaves. You can leave them in the near-trunk circles, treated with urea.
Time to prune the garden. Cut off all fruit-bearing branches from raspberries, leaving only the young ones of this year. For black currants, cut branches older than 4 years (they are dark in color, low from the ground), for red and white currants - branches older than 8 years.
It is necessary to collect all the mummified fruits, nests of pests, trapping belts and burn them along with the cut branches of the berries.
Protect young trunks of fruit trees from rodents. You can wrap the trunk with a metal mesh, or wrap the trunks with cotton cloth, or grease with old fat. One of better ways protection - whitewashing the trunks, it will kill pests, protect against overheating and cracking.

Winter

Tramp down the snow in the tree trunks so that the mice cannot make moves under the snow.

May is perhaps the busiest month in the gardener's and gardener's calendar. One spraying of trees and bushes of blackcurrant, raspberry is worth it. May is also the time to sow radishes, beets, and if not sown earlier, then carrots, lettuce, greens. Here is the gardening to-do list for the beginning of May, which, fortunately, gives us plenty of days off.

On the site, it is now no longer possible to spray the garden with concentrated mineral fertilizer or iron sulfate against lichens. Leave this work for late autumn. However, protective spraying from pests that lay larvae and eggs in opening buds, and then in detached buds, must be done.

Before flowering, karbofos can be used, since it decomposes within a week and will have time to be neutralized by the time beneficial insects emerge at the moment the garden blooms. It is even better to spray with an infusion of citrus peels or onion peels. It is especially important to do this in a timely manner on raspberries.

Strawberries can be treated with Fitoverm against weevil in late April or early May. Gooseberry bushes affected by powdery mildew should be treated with Vectra or Topaz, and apple trees with scab should be treated with Vectra or Skor. However, "Vectra", "Topaz" and "Skor" are pesticides, so I do not use them, but again I treat my site with a protective one.

Spray first on young, already unfolded leaves, and then, after about 2–3 weeks, on young ovaries.

In May, apple trees, cherries and plums, to help them survive frosts more easily, should be sprayed with one of the following preparations: Epin-extra, Novosil (Silk) and Ecoberin (if you did not use a spring protective cocktail). In addition, if the frosts were long or strong, spray the trees with the "Ovary" ("Bud", "Gippersib") preparation over the buds and flowers, this will prevent the ovaries from falling off.

As soon as pink sprouts appear on peonies, immediately spray them protectively against rot with a solution of any copper-containing preparation, including a solution of Bordeaux liquid, or use Fitosporin. It is advisable to do the same spraying on plantings of roses, clematis, phloxes, irises, perennial asters. After spraying, cover clematis with lutrasil until the end of frost.

Later, when the shoots of lilies appear, do the same spraying on them. This is especially true of oriental hybrids. Lilies in general, systematically all summer, at least once a month, should be sprayed with the Zircon preparation (4 drops per 1 liter of water).

How to spray currants

At the very beginning of May, while the leaves have not yet unfolded, check for buds on blackcurrants. The mites are found in large, round, swollen buds that are very distinct from other buds and are clearly visible. Kidneys must be robbed and burned, and not thrown anywhere.

When the blackcurrant blooms, look for flowers on the bushes with narrow, fused petals of a dirty pink color. This is a very dangerous and contagious disease of blackcurrant for other bushes - terry. Such a bush must be immediately uprooted and burned, even if the flowers are only on one branch.

Red currants are often attacked by the red gall aphid, which penetrates the inside of the leaf, eating away the flesh. Her stool causes poisoning and red swelling of the leaves. Early spraying on young leaves with "Fitoverm" will help, which is absorbed by the leaf and functions in the cell sap for three weeks, protecting the plant from any sucking or gnawing pests.

Any other external spraying is practically useless, because the aphid is inside the leaf. But you can prevent it from entering the leaf by making soda spraying mandatory on the underside of the leaf (3 tablespoons of drinking or soda ash per 10 liters of water). The fact is that aphids penetrate the leaf from the underside. She has very delicate skin, which will be burned by soda bloom when the aphid crawls along the underside of the leaf, and she will die.

In mid-May, not only vegetable flies fly, but also a glass case, so spray blackcurrant bushes with weed infusion at this time to disorientate the pest, or use the Fitoverm biological preparation according to the instructions.

Make sure that at the time of flowering, the ants do not eat the blackcurrant ovaries. If the bushes bloom, but the berries do not give - that's their job.

Under the bushes, to protect against ants, you can spread a rag soaked in kerosene on the soil, but please do not pour kerosene on the soil. Ants and many other insects do not like this smell. They will leave this place.

You can put on each trunk growing from the ground, 1 drop of the drug "Absolute" against ants, or even better - use the "Great Warrior" gel. This is bait. The ants will come running to feast on it, but since the ants treat each other with food, each of them will not only die on its own, but will also destroy a lot of its relatives, and most importantly, the uterus. By the way, this drug acts on wasps in the same way.

If there are a large number of ants bustling about on the soil under the bushes, remove about 2 cm of the top layer of soil, most likely there will be an ant egg-laying. Pollinate the egg-laying with Ant or Phenaksin. Ants and eggs pollinated by the preparation die. All of these preparations are of low toxicity (the hazard class is the same as that of drinking soda or potassium permanganate).

Moniliosis: a disease of cherries, plums. How to treat?

With a prolonged cold and especially wet spring, an outbreak of a fungal disease of stone fruit crops (cherries, plums, apricots) - moniliosis is possible. Literally overnight, the leaves turn brown, as if they were doused with boiling water or acid, the branches also turn brown. The impression is that the plant has died. But then new leaves appear on the same branches from dormant buds on the bark. It would seem that everything worked out.

An no. These leaves turn yellow early and fall off in early August. There is no harvest, and those single berries that are nevertheless tied up usually crack and rot right on the branches.

If you observed a similar phenomenon in early spring, then immediately treat the plant with a spring cocktail, then repeat the treatment with Zircon (6 drops per 1 liter of water) immediately after flowering, and then at the end of July.

The next year, start spraying this plant at the leaf turn with the same spring cocktail and continue to do this monthly throughout the season. With such intense protection, it is usually possible to save the tree.

If you do not have these drugs, then you can use drugs containing copper (according to instructions), or Zircon. Since this is no longer prevention, but the fight against the disease, instead of 2 drops, you need to take 6-7 drops per 1 liter of water.

When to sow beets, radishes, peas. When to plant onion sets

At the very beginning of May, if you did not do this at the end of April, sow black onions, spring garlic, parsley, dill, cilantro, watercress, sorrel, carrots, lettuce, turnips in the ground. To prevent seedlings from thickening, before sowing, mix 1 teaspoon of seeds, 1 teaspoon of the dust fraction of AVA fertilizer, half a glass of river sand and sow into the prepared furrows as if you were salting food.

Radishes should be sown individually immediately after 3-4 cm. But giant radishes, such as "Duro" or "Alyoshka", should be sown immediately at a distance of 5-7 cm, and then thinned out using grown roots for food. Then the remaining ones will reach 8–10 cm in diameter, otherwise, due to lack of space, the roots will be about 4 cm in diameter.

Peas and beans are cold-resistant plants; they can be sown in the ground as early as May 9–10 without pre-soaking. Beans should be poured with very hot, about 70 degrees, water and sown immediately. But this should be done later, around May 15–20.

Onion sets and onion turnips should be planted after May 15th. Do not forget that the onion bed should be illuminated by the sun all day long, in addition, bulbous crops require slightly alkalized soil (pH 6-7).

Zucchini and pumpkins can be planted in the ground (preferably insulated with hay or on a compost heap) under a film cover in mid-May.

Cauliflower can be planted with seedlings in the ground at the end of May, but it should be covered with lutrasil. Firstly, it will protect the plants from night frosts, and secondly, during cherry blossom (mid-May) it's flying spring vegetable flies, which are very fond of cabbage.

When planting cabbage seedlings, 1 tablespoon of calcium nitrate and an incomplete teaspoon of AVA fertilizer powder fraction should be added to each hole and pour 1-2 liters of water. The soil must be mulched with either mowed grass or newspapers folded in several layers.

Do not rush to plant beet seedlings in the ground or sow them in the ground before the end of frost. If the beets fall at an early age, not only under frost, but even under a cold snap of up to 3-4 degrees Celsius, then it will either go into the arrow or give a small, hard-stone root crop.

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